Easter Pizza (Pizza Rustica): A Reward After Lent

Pizza Rustica, also known as Pizzagaina or sometimes Easter Pizza, originated in 17th-century Naples, Italy. It was a rich, savory pie baked on Good Friday to break the Lenten fast, and later enjoyed on Easter Sunday. The recipe uses ingredients that create a rich, savory filling, once forbidden during the fasting period. These include ricotta, provolone, ham, and/or salami, which represent prosperity, while the eggs symbolize rebirth. 

And no, the Easter Pizza recipe is nothing like the traditional pizza we love and grew up with. A pie-like crust is wrapped around the rich cheese and egg filling. However, you could add peppers, onions, mushrooms, and spinach to the Easter Pizza filling to make it your own. 

That's supposed to be a spring chicken in the middle.  So much for my creativity. 

Italian immigrants brought this tradition to the United States in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, often adapting it to include local ingredients. My hometown of Walla Walla, Washington, was one of those areas where this tradition of the "Easter Pizza" existed among the Italian families as early as 1857.

My first introduction to Easter Pizza was over 40 years ago, when a family friend shared his tradition with our family. The rumor was that the local Italian nonnas were keeping their recipe close to their heart.

Later, I would find the "Easter Pizza" at the local Italian deli in my neighborhood. It was made in-house.  In the late 1990s, I started my search for the recipe online, but to no avail, as the Easter Pizza I was familiar with used elbow macaroni (sometimes penne pasta), whereas none of the online recipes I came across had pasta (which, looking back, in the early years of the internet, information was limited). 

A couple of years ago, I struck gold when Frederick, the son of one of our local prominent Italian families, whose mother, Marguerite, was known for her meatballs and eggplant parmigiana, asked if I would like his mother's recipe for Easter Pizza. I was thrilled!  I was familiar with Marguerite's recipes as she knew I did not like eggplant. She told me I didn't like eggplant because I had never had her eggplant parmigiana, and she claimed she could change my mind. To this day, I will eat eggplant, especially eggplant parmigiana, and I think of her fondly.  

The thing about these recipes from nonnas is that, for example, Marguerite's recipe, like many great cooks, is written in their "secret code" with only the ingredients. Frederick sent along a second recipe, his interpretation of his mother's, with a little more information. Then I had various notes from the internet on how to assemble the pie, what kind of crust to use, and how to apply it. So, for a couple of weeks, I continued researching and kind of "marinated" on the Easter Pizza assemblage until Good Friday.  

The recipe below is what I deciphered and made the recipe my own. One of the things I have discovered if you think like an Italian Nonna, all you need to be is flexible. 

 

Ingredients:

Pie crusts (store-bought or use your favorite pie crust recipe - minus sugar). 
1/2 - 1 lb. dry elbow macaroni or penne pasta
8-9 eggs (one egg for the top crust egg wash)
1 cup whole milk
1 lb cheese (including 15 ounces ricotta in this pound and add a variety of shredded Italian cheeses like parmesan, provolone, pecorino romano)
1 lb ham (or salami or a blend of cured Italian meats), cut into small bite-sized chunks. (I used salami since we were having ham for our Easter dinner.
Salt and ground black pepper. If you want to be fancy, add a pinch of nutmeg

1. Use your favorite pie crust recipe (minus any sugar). Think of a crust for a savory quiche. Nonni doesn't need to know if you use store-bought crusts. You may need at least three crusts (two packages). Let the crust thaw if frozen. 
   Or you may use the crusts that are lined in an aluminum pan (at least two). If you go that route, then you won't have a top crust like a quiche. If you want the traditional top crust, get a package of crusts and make a woven crust, or use spring- or Easter-like cookie cutters and place the cookie-shaped individual crusts on top of the filling. Note: I used a "spring chicken" shaped cookie cutter and cut the design out of the middle of the crust. 

2. Use a 9" springform pan, a loaf pan, or 2-3 deep 9" pie pans. Spray the pans generously with "Pam."  I used a springform pan. It took almost two individual crusts to cover the bottom and sides of the pan (with no separation between them). Line the outside bottom of the pan with aluminum foil (just in case of leakage). Later, after the filling is added, a third crust can be placed on top. Now, here is where the fun starts... 

3. Boil your choice of elbow macaroni or penne (I used penne) as per the directions on the box. The original recipe calls for the full 1 lb. I did, but didn't use all of the cooked pasta. In the future, I will only cook half the box and add according to the egg batter. 

   So what if you have leftover pasta? You will have dinner or a snack.

It's important to cook the pasta for half the time specified on the box. Remember, the pasta will continue to cook while baking. Drain the pasta well. Set aside. 

4. In a bowl using a hand mixer or in a stand mixer on low, add 8 eggs. Beat until blended. Add a cup of whole milk to the eggs. Blend well. Add the ricotta and continue beating until well blended. 

5. Fold into the eggs the desired amount of pasta, remaining cheeses, and cured meat. Add salt and pepper - about a half teaspoon to a teaspoon of salt. No more than a teaspoon if using very salty meat and cheeses. One to two teaspoons of ground black pepper to taste.  

6. Pour egg batter into the springform pan or your choice of pan. Spread evenly. Add the top crust. Seal the bottom and top crusts as well as possible. Decorate the top crust as desired.  If the top of the pie is completely covered with crust, make sure you poke a few air holes for expansion. 

7. Place the pan on a sheet pan and bake at 350 degree pre-heated oven for 50-60 minutes until the middle comes out clean or almost clean with a knife. Let the pie set up for an hour. 

8. Yes, when lifting the pie, it will be heavy. There are pounds of goodies in there! Serve at room temp or just lightly chilled. If heated, it just isn't as tasty. Slice into desired pieces. It will serve a lot! If you have any left, it can be kept in the refrigerator for four to five days, and it freezes well. 

This dish, which has been enjoyed by many generations, can be enjoyed on other days, as well. It makes a great dish for brunch with a salad or as an appetizer. It is hearty enough to pack well for a picnic. What kind of wine to serve with Easter Pizza? A glass of Prosecco, Lambrusco, or a glass of Champagne.